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RSS Feed"Brokeback" clothing speaks louder than words
At the end of “Brokeback Mountain,” Ennis Del Mar (Heath Ledger) goes to his closet and audiences see that he keeps Jack Twist’s (Jake Gyllenhaal) blood-stained shirt on a hanger, layered beneath one of his own shirts.
“That was the shirt Jack wore on their last day on the mountain,” says “Brokeback” costume designer Marit Allen. “The one he took from Jack’s parent's house.... That shirt symbolizes their entire relationship."
Throughout Ang Lee’s moving love story, based on Annie Proulx’s short story, the characters’ clothing telegraphs their emotions louder than any words.
“Proulx’s story is so pure, and tender that the costumes and wardrobe needed gentle handling,” says Allen. “Hopefully you don’t notice the clothing, but you feel the emotions that the clothes convey. In that sweeping landscape, those two figures and their clothing act as subliminal telegraphs.”
Allen, who worked with Lee on two previous films, including his Civil War movie, “Ride With the Devil,” was keenly aware of the film’s epic feel. But Lee also wanted to capture the reality of the time, the cowboys, ranchers and their economic situations. One invaluable tool for Allen was Richard Avedon’s book, “In the American West,” much of it shot during the late '70s.
But adhering to strict, often unspoken western-wear traditions proved to be a real challenge.
“Everything worn by cowboys and ranchers has a meaning and a cultural reference,” says Allen. “It would be very easy for an outsider unfamiliar with the code to make a mistake. For instance, cowboys wear Wrangler jeans [they’re much tighter] and ranchers wear looser Levi’s. Even the shape and heel height on a cowboy boot tells a tale. So does the height, color, brim and shape of a hat, which also varies from state to state. For instance, Jack’s broader Texas hat is different than the one Ennis wears in Wyoming. And all of this is unspoken but rigorously observed.”
The time period also had a distinct look.
Photo: Heath Ledger and Jake Gyllenhaal wear their hearts on their sleeves in "Brokeback Mountain."
(Kimberly French / Focus Features)
“The '70s shoulder was much higher and the armholes were tighter,” Allen explains. “The shirts were also more constricted. And that period’s polyester was much different from polyester used now. It hugged the body and has a sexual connotation that a pure cotton just doesn’t convey.”
Gyllenhaal and Ledger’s clothing, most of which was specially made for them, also reflects their characters' social trajectories.
“Ennis’ life goes downhill after Brokeback. And his clothes reflect this. He’s poor, scraping by to support a family. He wears the same clothes, doesn’t buy anything new and his wardrobe gets more dreary and worn as the years go by,” says Allen. “But Jack, married to a wealthy wife in Texas, has money and his clothes are more in style, flamboyant and expensive.”
The two men's wives' clothing also conveys emotions. In the scene when Jack’s wife Lureen (Anne Hathaway) is talking on the phone with Ennis about Jack, her polyester western shirt has dark, sharp colors around the neck. “That shirt was full of danger and foreboding. It had a viciousness about it that works when she is lying to Ennis about Jack,” Allen says.
The quiet despair sensed in Ennis’ dour young wife Alma, (Michelle Williams) is also palpable due to her wardrobe. “I had found a vintage dress — a very worn, faded floral dress — that I thought would be perfect for Alma. Michelle tried it on and looked in the mirror. We both just started to cry. That sad little dress said everything about Alma’s life. It just broke my heart.”
Allen couldn’t be happier that a couple of items from Gyllenhaal and Ledger’s wardrobe (boots, belts) went missing when the film ended. “They wanted some things to remind them of the filmmaking experience,” says Allen. “It's nice that they wanted souvenirs. That always makes me smile."
it is march 5th and i have only just seen brokeback mountain... a few days ahead of the academy awards...
this is the best movie i have ever seen. the way that ang lee has captured the feeling and circumstances of a life and an culture not native to him is simply genius...
the way the movie is paced, so slow in the beginning, a bit boring, with hardly any recognisable dialogue/exchanges of human interaction, to the way that it ends, also with few words and unspokens, and then everything in between...
a beautiful story and a beautiful adaptation. this film deserves awards in all of its nominations!
Posted by: robert | March 04, 2006 at 06:23 AM
Hello
I saw the movie, my brother is gay and before the movie I just didn`t understand a reletionship between 2 men, I even thought there was no such a thing involved
now after the movie I think different I sure will respect a reletionship between 2 guys
dude I was a llitle odd at the end of the movie some informations that I just ignored lol
but once again everybody deserves respect ....a BEAUTIFUL love story
by the way I liked all the clothes Ennis del Mar wore specially the shirts
where could I find information about the brand and where to buy these items
please let me know to my email jcalanmty@yahoo.com.mx
Posted by: Julio Alvarez | February 21, 2006 at 03:52 PM
I thought the entire movie, from start to finish was perfect. The music was intense, it brought the feelings of the characters to light and was very emotional. Being a straight man, I thought Brokeback Mountain was THE best movie of 2005. I had to drive over 100 miles to see it because of its limited release in theaters, but it was so good I drove the 100 miles a second time to see it. Ang Lee did a superb job with directing, a job well done! Ledger and Gyllenhaal were amazing, just amazing. This movie deserves a lot of credit for its portrayal of Ennis and Jack and what occured in their lives. To everyone involved with the film, well done, well done. Thanks for the movie!
Greg List Jr.
Posted by: Greg L | February 06, 2006 at 01:28 PM
So according to the costume designer, Marin Allen, who was quoted in this article, Lureen was lying to Ennis when they talked over the phone? So it means that Jack wasn't really killed in a freak accident with the tire rim? So that means he was murdered?
Posted by: Jeremy G. | January 28, 2006 at 05:18 AM
One of the saddest films I have ever seen, 'Brokeback' was also one of the most deeply romantic, and the little shirt in Ennis' trailer home's closet in the end is an image I don't think I'll ever forget. And I don't want to. We live in a country whose Hubble telescope can take pictures of the universe only a short time after its very beginning, yet all of our citizens do not have equal rights; I hope other filmmakers will continue to make movies that put our society's false morals under a powerful lens in such a lyrical and well done way.
Best film of 2005 in every way.
J.J. Rohmaller
Posted by: J.J. Rohmaller | January 08, 2006 at 05:17 PM
I enjoyed the film. The only two criticisms I've heard are:
1. IT WAS TOO LONG!
2. IT WAS NOT LONG ENOUGH!
I thought it was just perfect!
Posted by: David Hammond | January 06, 2006 at 03:42 PM
Kudos to Ang Lee for his vision and bravery!
The entire production team was magnificent...Great writing, great costume design, great musical scoring, great acting, great casting--and directing...The Brokeback team deserves to sweep every award this year. BRAVO!
Robert B.
Posted by: Robert | January 05, 2006 at 03:12 PM